I STILL WONDER HOW GULAB JAMUNS TURN BROWN

THE 30-MINUTE GOURMET

News Paper – Bangalore Times, TOI

Published on - August 27, 1999

 Author - RAJ MADNANI

Khana, glorious Khazana! Sanjeev Kapoor is a great chef, a TV star. More important in my view, women love him. I don't know his wife's views on this issue, and I was too overwhelmed to ask him during the few seconds that I met him at the world's largest kitty party organised by the Kissan Chef Club at the Tal West End last Saturday. Surrounded by over 300 beautiful women, I woefully realised that, fantasies apart, I prefer smaller kitty parties in the real world.

Sanjeev Kapoor demonstrated several recipes, and was in full control. Thank God! When I cook, with more than one kitty watching, furiously taking notes, my legs turn to Jelly. My knife develops a sudden bluntness, the gas will not light, and the omelette starts to look like rubber and taste like leather, to borrow an expression from that morning.

Everything went well for Sanjeev. When he spread the mango rabri on the plate, I was hoping he'd spill some, like us lesser mortals. He covered the platter perfectly. Like a surgeon, he dropped five buttons of chocolate sauce on the rabri. Then, with the climactic flourish of an Olympian ice skater, he swept an unused toothpick through the five chocolate buttons. A stellar display of confidence. It was like a rock concert, the women went berserk. If it wasn't for the heavy security, they would have attacked poor Sanjeev Kapoor.

I bought his cookbook at the show. A collector's piece because I managed to get him to sign the first page for me. (This is true.) I had to fight my way through screaming women who had eyes and hands for Sanjeev Kapoor only.

(This is not true, but funny I hope.) Then I made my five-year-old give this book to his mom as a present. (True.) I made him pay for it in small change from his piggy bank. (True, and not as mean as it sounds.) He had offered his savings for a gift to mom a few days before (again true), so I simply had him keep his word. Mom looked delighted at the book and at her son (true), suspiciously at me. (She: was I trying to say something about her cooking? Me: hope she doesn't whack me with the hardcover Khazana.)

My wife made Chicken Curry from the book next day. The recipe was brilliant. Simple, rich, delicious Sanjeev Kapoor's hallmarks. My wife made it so well, I hugged her. She was surprised, but happy with the hug, after which she confessed that the cook Ram Sevak had made it. If you see or smell my cook, you will agree that hugging him would render you anorexic for several days.

Sanjeev Kapoor has done a lot for Indian food. He has, in my opinion, greatly enhanced the ways Indian foods are made to look better on the table. An exciting innovator, he boldly works with traditional combinations in their true forms, and in their non-conforming, new and interesting exploratory forms. A genius with food and with his hands, never short on style. Moreover, he was perfectly at ease with 300 women. But I feel sorry for the man because the members at the world's largest kitty party asked many difficult questions.

What makes spinach green? Is there an egg less cake? Why do you put sugar inside the rasmalai ball while cooking it. Should I put salt in food before cooking or after cooking? What is your birthdate? There were many more. One truly memorable comment which drew loud applause, probably reflecting the feelings of all the member kitties present: I wish my husband was like you. Thankfully, I didn't bring my wife along, she would have clapped the loudest.

I went home with my burning question unasked: what makes gulab jamuns turn brown? Also, I wanted to take advantage of my wife's absence to make my repartee comment: I wish my wife was like you, Mr Kapoor! I never got to ask my question or speak my piece, women had taken over as usual.

If you are unable to see or touch Sanjeev Kapoor the man, you must buy his book Khazana of Indian Recipes, a collection of delightful favourites, and many interesting variations. Here's a quick, delicious recipe from one of India's most gifted and exciting chefs - Spaghetti Arrabiata. Bon Appetit!

SPAGHETTI ARRABIATA

Spaghetti 500 gms; Crushed Garlic 2 tbsp; Sliced Onion 1/2 cup; Blanched Tomatoes 5 nos; Salt to taste; Dry Red Chillies 2 tbsp, crushed; Olive Oil 2 tbsp; Chopped Parsley 1 tbsp.

1. Cook spaghetti in plenty of salted boiling water. Drain and keep aside.

2. Heat oil in a pan, add crushed garlic, cook until light brown. Add sliced onions and cook until onions are transparent.

3. Add chopped blanched and deseeded tomatoes. Cook for about 5 minutes on a slow flame.

4. Add salt, crushed chillies and chopped parsley. Pour the sauce over cooked spaghetti and garnish with grated Parmesan cheese.