HERE'S TO THE DEMISE OF THE WHITE SAUCE

THE 30-MINUTE GOURMET

News Paper – Bangalore Times, TOI

Published on - May 28, 1999

 Author - RAJ MADNANI

The glorious end of white sauce! And here's the obituary. Born somewhere in France about 400 years ago, give or take 200 years, this sauce died a timely death in Bangalore in the year 1999. It graced millions of tables, pleased as many hostesses. Tens of millions agonised over its simplicity, nay its banality. Hundreds of millions, unable to contain their cruel delight, will hold a special service at Mrs Tarla Dalal's house next week. I hope Mrs Dalal will not mind my using her name. It is only appropriate that the service be held at her place because she has done more for vegetarian Indian and Continental foods in India than anybody I know.

Two weeks ago, when I criticised white sauce (mauled and destroyed it, actually) I was afraid to walk the streets. I was sure women would attack if they recognised me. So, I dyed my hair mostly grey and white, but I could not conceal my girth. That very day, I was challenged by a young lady who thoroughly enjoys white sauce. Have you asked your guests if they do, tried to debate the point in a tentative tone?

That very morning, my wife woke me up with a copy of the BgT. An instant after the paper crashed into my ear, a hot cup of black Assam tea was thrust into my weak hands and the door slammed hard enough to be heard in Langford Gardens. Strange behaviour that early, considering she had just finished her yoga and meditation. It usually takes me some ten minutes of wakefulness to get her this mad. Did I say something in my sleep? I saw the BT and realised she was upset about the white sauce article. I'll make spinach and corn in white sauce and another casserole with mushrooms and cheese in white sauce, and she'll be OK. I planned.

Later I discovered that she was mad because she thought I enjoyed the white sauce she made when I actually hate it. More about my marriage next time, let's not stray. Let's celebrate the demise of white sauce. The cause (the end of white sauce supremacy, remember?) is more important than a few shaken, or stirred, marriages.

Thankfully, and quite uneventfully if you must know, I met some ladies that week who were very pleased to move on in the evolution of white sauces. They were glad that some-one finally speaketh the bitter white truth. They refused to believe me when I insisted that there were several variations, all tasteful, to a basic, insipid, dull, useless, tire-some white sauce. Egged on by these wonderful ladies (tell a man he does not know, and he'll do any- thing to convince you otherwise), I present below some more variations on the white sauce with reference to one and a quarter cup of white sauce.

As you finish the white sauce (assuming you've got it right: smooth and consistent) do the following:

1. Add a half cup of grated cheddar cheese, stir for a minute or so. The cheese will melt in for a smooth cheesy sauce. Vintage cheddar cheese should work just fine. If you are fond of seasonings, add a pinch or two. This works nicely with grilled, melted sandwiches, or with vegetables, pasta, fish, chicken and eggs.

2. Chop a hardboiled egg and a tablespoon of fresh chopped parsley in your blender (chopper mode) and mix into the sauce. Creamy from the yolk, and a soft texture from the white combine well with vegetables, chicken and ham.

3. Mix Into the white sauce one tablespoon chopped browned onions, made before the sauce, and one tablespoon of chopped sauteed onions, also prepared earlier, and sauteed until the raw oniony taste goes away, in about 6-8 minutes on a low fire. A zesty, somewhat intense, onion & cheese flavour most suitable for chicken, mushrooms, fish.

4. Lightly fry 125 grams of sliced mushrooms in butter until golden brown. Mix into the sauce. One tablespoon of powder (optional) from a mushroom soup mix will help enhance the flavour. Will go weil with vegetables, chicken, or ham.

The white sauce days are over, my suffering is over. We can-all hosts, hostesses and guests (specially guests)-honestly appreciate and seriously enjoy the continental baked dishes on the buffet table. Enjoy the sauce variations, they are so easy to make. Your guests will be genuinely pleased- who can manage more? Bon Appetit!